Doll Pattern Book reviews needed

[Skittl1321]

Calling all seamstresses! I am looking for some books about doll patterns and it is amazing how many of them are out there. Can you tell me anything about these books, and specifically if you think they will fit the chubby 18? dolls. Some of them have the most amazing patterns in them. I am particularly interested if the 12 dancing princesses patterns will fit the AGs, as it seams the ?sew the ? wardrobe for 18? dolls? have reviews that say they will fit. The shoe book seems like it would be a dream. Matching shoes are hard to find.

Have you used any of these books? Do you recommend them?


Make Doll Shoes! Workbook I (Make Doll Shoes) by Lyn Alexander

Twelve Dancing Princesses: Sewing Regal Costumes for 18" Dolls by Joan Hinds

Sew the International Wardrobe for 18-Inch Dolls by Joan Hinds

Sew the Essential Wardrobe for 18-Inch Dolls by Joan Hinds

Two-Hour Dolls' Clothes by Anita Louise Crane

Sew the Contemporary Wardrobe for 18-Inch Dolls: Complete Instructions and Full-Size Patterns for 35 Clothing and Accessory Items by Joan Hinds

Also- I noticed the title of the last book has ?complete instructions and full sized patterns? in the title. Do the other books only come with instructions and not the patterns? Do you have to purchase those separately, or did I just not find the full subtitle.

Thanks [img]smile.gif[/img]


edit to add: urgh.... the place that listed 12 dancing princesses for under $30 actually doesn't have them. Used copies of it cost between 60 and 80. But what do you think about the other books?

<font color="#051E50" size="1">[ October 14, 2005 09:52 AM: Message edited by: Skittl1321 ]</font>

[erick0808]

I have looked at the ones by Joan Hinds. I thought they had some good stuff, but I have not tried to make any thing yet. I have The Dolls' Dressmaker, the complete pattern book. I love this one, but it is more for patterns for Samantha and Nellie. Kim

[robin0850]

I checked out the Two-Hour Doll Clothes book from the library--my sister loves it, but it didn't do much for me. The clothes are nice, but you're supposed to measure your doll, and draw the patterns to fit, using the illustrations as a guide. I found it somewhat confusing, and didn't actually try to make any of the clothes. I didn't want to invest the time and effort in making something that might not fit!
I'd rather use a book that has patterns especially designed/sized to fit 18" dolls.

[Skittl1321]

Oh that's good to know AsianAG. Although, do you think that the book might be good to get me on track to designing my own dresses? Since you essentially draw the own patterns.

I would eventually like to make dresses for sale, and you can't sell ones from commerical patterns. Do you think that that might be an okay way to learn?

I looked at the Doll's Dressmaker Book and I was a bit worried that it wouldn't fit AG because the dolls in the pictures all seemed like skinny dolls.

I will probably get one or 2 of the Joan Hinds books and see how they are. This sewing stuff is just way to much fun.

[Sakurako]

Joan Hinds' books have the patterns in them. Thank heavens she's stopped trying to be all things to all dolls, so the patterns are designed for AGs only now. One of her earlier books had pattern variations for several "standard" dolls and Talk About Confusing!!!

Joan's books are a good basic beginning point. When she says in her introduction that you need to measure your doll for a perfect fit, it's for common sense things like waistlines. The last I knew, she was designing with the PM dimensions in mind, but you should get into the habit of checking certain measurements against any pattern you plan to use.

For pants, the crotch and hip measurements are the critical ones. For a normal waisted pants pattern (not hiphuggers), the back of the pants (the curved seam at the center back) should be the same length as the measurement from your doll's waist to the center seam between her legs. Make adjustments to the paper pattern before you cut it out because you may need extra paper! To get an accurate line for the waistline, tie a string around her waist and lay a cloth or plastic tape measure along the doll's backside from the waist to the lower body seam. To get an accurate measurement on the pattern, lay the tape measure on its side, starting at the inside seam line at the top of the center back of the pants and curving along the seamline to the inside seam allowance at the top of the inner leg seam. If the pattern measurement is too short, you can draw a new line to add the space you need outside the top edge of the pattern. Very often when the back length is too short, the front length will be just right. So you will want to taper your new cutting line from the high point, where you added the extra length, down to the original cutting line on the side seam.

For the hip measurement, measure down from the string tied around the doll's waistline to the fullest part of the doll's body and write down how many inches down it is. (Maybe 1.5 inches, for example?) Lay the tape measure around the doll's hip and measure from her center back seam to her side seam. Then measure on the same line across her front from side seam across to side seam. Divide the front hip measurement by two. On the paper pattern, measure down from the waist to the same distance (1.5 inches or whatever) and then measure across the pattern from center seam to side seam on that line. If the measurements are exactly the same (doll measurement equals pattern measurement), you may want to add a little extra to the side seams for "ease". Otherwise your doll won't be able to sit down in her pants.

A good example of not allowing for ease is the original straight-leg blue jeans that were sold by Pleasant Co. in 1995/96 for the AGTs. You can barely get the jeans onto the PM dolls, and they can't sit in them. Since seam allowances are 1/4 inch for doll clothes, I work in 1/4 inch increments to make adjustments to side seams on patterns. A clear plastic ruler with 1/8 inch grid lines marked on it is really important if you're going to be revising patterns a lot. You can find one in quilting supplies.

The other consideration for how a pattern will fit is what style of closure it's designed for. If the pattern says to use velcro for closures and you want to use snaps, you will want to add a little extra to the closure opening to allow for overlap. I actually draw an extra "placket" onto all the patterns I use that adds 3/8 of an inch to the part of the seam where the closure will be. If you find that you don't need the extra bit when the fabric is cut out, you can always turn it under for a nice finished edge. It's much trickier to add on than it is to fold under. And I prefer snaps to velcro because snaps don't mess up my dolls' hair and stockings.

Hope this has been helpful!

[Skittl1321]

Cherry- thank you so much.

I'm going to sound stupid- but it has never occured to me to check the measurement of the pattern with the measurement of the doll...

your explanation really helped. I'm so sad you're leaving the board.

[Sakurako]

Not stupid at all. It's a nuisance to do this but much less aggravating than finishing something and THEN find out it doesn't fit!

I like to add more rather than not enough, so sometimes the first attempt at making up a pattern comes out saggy baggy. Oh well...

I'm noticing now that a lot of commercial doll clothes patterns are smaller than they used to be so I'm guessing that the pattern companies are using the post Mattel AG dolls as models? Plus you need to check out the doll that is shown as a model for the clothes in the pattern book. If it's a Magic Attic doll, she has an entirely different and much more slender body type than any AG. The dolls used for Simplicity Daisy Kingdom patterns and the kewpie-looking dolls in the "vintage style" Vogue patterns are also much slimmer than AGs. Gotz and Corolle dolls are usually a good match for AG bodies.

Also look at the recommended fabric on the back of the pattern envelope for the "view" you're interested in making. If it says Two Way Stretch Knits, you need real bathing suit material and when you pull it, it should stretch in both directions, not just one! This is especially true for tights and stockings, as well as body suits, leotards and bathing suits. I redesigned a two piece bathing suit pattern (designed for 2-way stretch knits) to fit Gina (slightly chubby PM AGT) in non-stretching cotton. But before I got to the final version, I'd finished bathing suits for two other AGTs who were much slimmer than Gina!

Good luck with all your endeavors!

[dornroeschen]

I have "Make Doll Shoes! Workbook I" and "Make Doll Shoes! Workbook II" by Lyn Alexander, and the shoe patterns in these books won't fit AG's. If the lenght seems to fit, then they are far too narrow in the heel and if the heel seems to be the right width, then they're about an inch or more too long. These books are suitable for porcelain dolls using standard toddler bodies.

[rafferty]

I have several of the Joan Hinds books. I feel they are very good. I just got the last book an your list the other day, snd I REALLY love the sweaters they have to make. They also have a Harry Potter-ish type outfit using woman's socks to make a vest...a VERY interesting concept.

Shelly

[lolaliddle]

Hi!

I have several of the pattern books by Joan Hinds. The 12 Dancing Princesses contains patterns for slim and AG sized dolls along with Shoe patterns. I have not tried anything out of this book because it seems more involved and detailed. I also have the Storybook Wardrobe book and made a Dorothy dress and found it to be easy. Both books I purchased on Ebay. I also bought from the website Fancywork and Fashion a set of Nutcracker Ballet patterns. Both of my girls are dancing in the Nutcracker this year so I am making costumes for all our dolls. Try checking eBay for the books you want. I found my books cheap on Ebay.

Cheryl